Best Changua in Bogotá

Changua is Bogotá's most controversial and distinct breakfast dish. It is a warm, milky soup made with equal parts water and milk, flavored with a generous amount of green scallions and fresh cilantro. A whole egg is poached directly in the simmering liquid, and it is traditionally served with a piece of "calado" (a twice-baked, crunchy bread) that is meant to be broken into the soup to soak up the broth. It is a deeply polarizing dish—locals either love it as the ultimate hangover cure and comfort food, or avoid it entirely. For the curious traveler, it is the most unique taste of the high-altitude Andean breakfast.

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Why locals care

Changua is Bogotá's most controversial and distinct breakfast dish. It is a warm, milky soup made with equal parts water and milk, flavored with a generous amount of green scallions and fresh cilantro. A whole egg is poached directly in the simmering liquid, and it is traditionally served with a piece of "calado" (a twice-baked, crunchy bread) that is meant to be broken into the soup to soak up the broth. It is a deeply polarizing dish—locals either love it as the ultimate hangover cure and comfort food, or avoid it entirely. For the curious traveler, it is the most unique taste of the high-altitude Andean breakfast.

The ranking · 15 stops

Where to eat Changua

10.0/ 10

Restaurante Sopas de Mamá y Postres de la Abuela

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Verdict
This popular chain offers a safe and convenient option with remarkably consistent quality.various (Multiple)
Queue
Go
1:00 PM; a reliable and very popular chain of traditional food.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
20.0/ 10

Restaurante Fulanitos

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Verdict
Known for regional food, this historic house also serves a reliable and high-quality ajiaco.La Candelaria
Queue
Go
1:30 PM; a historic house with a beautiful patio.
Price
$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
30.0/ 10

Abasto

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Verdict
Offers a refined version focusing on specific potato varieties and organic chicken.Usaquén
Queue
Go
1:30 PM; a modern "farm-to-table" take on traditional Colombian ingredients.
Price
$$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
40.0/ 10

Mercado de Usaquén

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Verdict
Stalls with large iron pots achieve the best slow-simmered flavor in the Sunday market.Usaquén
Queue
Go
12:30 PM on a Sunday; the street market is a hub for authentic local food.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
50.0/ 10

Restaurante Las Margaritas

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Verdict
Operating since 1902, this local secret uses a century-old family recipe with generous amounts of chicken.Chapinero
Queue
Go
1:30 PM; a historic and very unpretentious family restaurant.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
60.0/ 10

Pastelería Las Bezanilla

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Verdict
Offers premium tamales for take-away, favored by local families for Sunday breakfast.various (Usaquén)
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Go
10:00 AM; a high-end traditional bakery known for its quality and consistency.
Price
$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
70.0/ 10

Donde Zacarías

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Verdict
Prepares tamales in small batches to ensure the leaves remain moist and the centers hot.various (Centro)
Queue
Go
9:30 AM; a popular "people's restaurant" on the city's main avenue.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
80.0/ 10

La Puerta Falsa

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Verdict
Operating since 1816, this tiny historic spot near Plaza de Bolívar serves thick ajiaco in traditional clay bowls.La Candelaria
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Go
1:30 PM; a tiny, historic spot (operating since 1816) near the Plaza de Bolívar.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
90.0/ 10

Restaurante Casa Vieja

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Verdict
One of the oldest fine-dining traditional restaurants, serving a smooth and delicate version of the soup.various (Centro / Zona G)
Queue
Go
1:00 PM; a historic and very formal traditional restaurant.
Price
$$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
100.0/ 10

Crepes & Waffles

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Verdict
Their breakfast menu often includes a respected and slightly modernized version of the dish.various (Multiple)
Queue
Go
9:30 AM; a beloved Colombian institution.
Price
$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
110.0/ 10

Restaurante Doña Elvira

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Verdict
A favorite of Anthony Bourdain, this rustic spot serves home-style ajiaco that has not changed in decades.Chapinero
Queue
Go
1:00 PM; a legendary and very unpretentious "Picada" with a massive local following.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
120.0/ 10

Suna

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Verdict
Serves a lighter and less salty version of ajiaco without losing the essential guasca flavor.various (Usaquén / Chapinero)
Queue
Go
1:30 PM; a health-conscious restaurant that masters traditional flavors.
Price
$$$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
130.0/ 10

La Puerta de la Tradición

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Verdict
A less crowded alternative to its famous neighbor, serving fast and cheap traditional ajiaco.La Candelaria
Queue
Go
1:30 PM; a traditional and very unpretentious competitor to La Puerta Falsa.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
140.0/ 10

Pastelería Florida

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Verdict
This beloved historic cafe serves consistently high-quality tamales in a bustling atmosphere.Centro Histórico
Queue
Go
10:00 AM; a grand, high-ceilinged cafe on the city's main pedestrian street.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps
150.0/ 10

Paloquemao Market

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Verdict
Eating ajiaco at this bustling market provides the most authentic connection to fresh local ingredients.Los Mártires
Queue
Go
11:30 AM; sit at the traditional "Cocinerías" inside the city's largest market.
Price
$
Dietary
Stamp availableGoogle Maps

Decide at a glance

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Verified venues

15 stops

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Food near POIs

Gold Museum

Gold Museum

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Paloquemao Market

Paloquemao Market

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Usaquén Flea Market

Usaquén Flea Market

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Ralli Museum

Ralli Museum

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San Francisco Church

San Francisco Church

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Chapinero walks

Chapinero walks

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Chapinero central

Chapinero central

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Botero Museum

Botero Museum

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Zona G

Zona G

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Costanera Center

Costanera Center

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Any major district

Any major district

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