Chapter · Volume Mexico

Mexico City

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Street tacos from sidewalk trompos and market *tlacoyos* represent the democratic baseline: the best food in the city costs under 30 MXN and is found at a market stall, not a restaurant. Mexico City is also a lens onto every regional tradition of Mexican cooking — Oaxacan *mole negro*, Veracruz seafood, Yucatán *cochinita pibil*, and Puebla *chiles en nogada* all have permanent outposts here. The *mercados* (covered markets) — Mercado de Coyoacán, Mercado de Jamaica, Mercado de San Juan — are the single highest-density food experience in the city and the most reliable way to eat authentic regional dishes in one trip.

Local tip

Street tacos and market tacos are categorically different from the "Americanised" taco — look for a hand-pressed corn tortilla (never flour, never wheat wrap), a trompo visibly roasting, and a taquero who carves meat to order. The mercados are the surest shortcut to the real thing: Mercado de Coyoacán for *tlacoyos*, *tostadas*, and *enchiladas*; Mercado de Jamaica for antojitos in the back hall; Mercado de San Juan for upscale regional ingredients and prepared dishes. Mexico City sits at 2,240 metres above sea level — alcohol hits noticeably faster and dehydration accelerates; pace drinks accordingly and drink water consistently throughout the day.

Tacos El Pastorcito

BoturiniLocated in the "pastor district" of Boturini; many locals consider this the most authentic spot in the city.

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Taquería Orinoco

Roma NorteA trendy, Monterrey-style spot with incredible salsas and a very cool vibe.

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Tacos Manolo

NarvarteA local legend in the Narvarte neighborhood; their "Manolo" taco is a special mix including pastor meat.

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Taquería El Abanico

TránsitoMassive, bustling, and pure CDMX energy; their pastor is sliced thick and the portions are huge.

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Tacos de la 6

Centro HistóricoPerfectly located for a quick pit-stop in the heart of the historic center.

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Mercado de Coyoacán Stalls

CoyoacánA great place to try different fillings like "requesón" or "chicharrón prensado."

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Tlacoyos de la 6

Centro HistóricoKnown for their perfectly toasted masa and extra-fresh cactus toppings.

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Antojitos La Güera

Mercado de JamaicaLocated in the famous flower market; their tlacoyos are extra-large and very satisfying.

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Doña Rosa

Centro HistóricoA legendary figure who nixtamalizes her own corn; her tlacoyos have a unique, rustic texture.

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Tlacoyos de Narvarte

NarvarteA local favorite for a quick and cheap breakfast; their nopales are always perfectly seasoned.

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Quesadillas del Centro

Centro HistóricoPart of the "antojitos cluster"; perfectly fried and served with spicy salsa.

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Quesadillas de Polanco

PolancoA cleaner, more modern street food experience with premium ingredients.

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Quesadillas de Tepito

Morelos(Safety warning: go during the day) Known for some of the most authentic and spicy street food in the city.

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Mercado de San Pedro Atocpan

Milpa AltaThe "capital of mole" on the outskirts of the city; go here to buy the paste to take home or eat at the local fondas.

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Restaurante Nicos

AzcapotzalcoA slow-food institution; their mole is made with extreme care and high-quality ingredients.

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El Tajín

CoyoacánKnown for its research-based approach to Mexican cuisine; their regional moles are excellent.

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Restaurante El Bajío

variousA reliable chain founded by the legendary Carmen "Titita" Ramírez; their mole is consistently excellent.

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Expendio de Maíz

Roma NorteA "corn laboratory" that serves sophisticated, often unexpected versions of regional moles.

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Potzolcalli

variousA traditional chain that specializes in the "Rojo" style; very reliable and family-friendly.

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Esquites de Coyoacán Market

CoyoacánSeveral carts set up in the evening, offering very traditional and spicy versions.

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Esquites de Narvarte

NarvarteA reliable local favorite; their "chile del que pica" is notoriously strong.

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Esquites de San Ángel

San ÁngelA beautiful spot to enjoy a cup of corn while walking the cobblestone streets at night.

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Esquites del Zócalo

Centro HistóricoA quintessential CDMX experience while viewing the lit-up buildings at night.

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Tacos Alvaro Obregón

Roma NorteA neighborhood favorite for a quick, consistent, and very traditional pastor taco.

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Tacos El Chupacabras

CoyoacánLocated under a bridge near the Coyoacán metro; legendary for its large portions and array of free toppings.

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Taquería Los Parados

Roma SurKnown for its standing-room-only atmosphere and charcoal-grilled meats; the pastor has a distinct smokiness.

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Tacos El Borrego Viudo

TacubayaFamous for its "drive-through" service where waiters run to your car window; the salsa is notoriously spicy.

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Tacos Hola El Güero

CondesaSpecializes in "tacos de guisado" (stews), but their pastor is a reliable and delicious option in a trendy area.

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Tacos El Greco

CondesaKnown for its "tacos árabes" (Arabic-style) origins; the pastor here has a slightly different spice profile.

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Taquería Los Güeros

BoturiniA direct competitor to El Pastorcito; famous for its extra-charred meat and very fast service.

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Tacos El Bagre

Centro HistóricoA hidden gem on the vibrant Regina street; great for a quick snack while exploring the Centro.

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Tacos Los Juanes

Roma NorteA no-frills, highly reliable local stand with a very loyal following.

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Tlacoyos Medellín

Roma SurKnown for using beautiful blue corn masa and generous portions of fresh nopales.

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Tlacoyos de Doña Mary

CoyoacánFamous for her "requesón" filling; many locals consider her the best in the south.

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Tlacoyos de la Condesa

CondesaA trendy street stand that uses organic corn and very fresh local produce.

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Tlacoyos de Iztapalapa

IztapalapaThe best way to find them: look for the large comales in the local "tianguis" markets.

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Tlacoyos de Polanco

PolancoA more upscale version of the street classic, with very refined salsas.

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Tlacoyos de la Alameda

CentroPerfect for a quick bite after visiting Bellas Artes; look for the most crowded stand.

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Quesadillas Doña Lucha

CoyoacánTheir blue corn quesadillas are some of the most famous in the city; the "flor de calabaza" is a must-try.

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Quesadillas de la Abuela

variousA popular chain that brings the "grandma's kitchen" feel to several neighborhoods with reliable, home-style fillings.

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Mercado de Jamaica Stalls

Venustiano CarranzaThe flower market hosts some of the best fried quesadillas in the city; look for the stalls near the main entrance.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Los Machetes de Amparito

GuerreroFamous for "machetes"—massive, half-meter-long quesadillas stuffed with your choice of ingredients.

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Quesadillas de San Cosme

San RafaelA local favorite for a quick breakfast; their "tinga" is exceptionally well-seasoned.

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Quesadillas de la Roma

Roma NorteA popular night-time spot for theater-goers and locals.

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Quesadillas de Narvarte

NarvarteA reliable local favorite; their "queso" is always perfectly melted.

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Angelopolitana

Roma NorteSpecializes in food from Puebla; their various moles are the star of the show.

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Mole de la Doña

Centro HistóricoA small, traditional spot that focuses on a single, perfectly balanced Mole Poblano.

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Mole del Mercado de San Juan

CentroLook for the specialized mole paste vendors who also serve small tasting portions.

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Flor de Lis

variousA high-quality, more established brand with several locations, known for their consistency and clean flavors.

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Tamales Holandesa

variousA local chain that offers a wide variety of both sweet and savory tamales.

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Street Vendors

Every cornerLook for the large silver steaming vats (tamaleras) on street corners, especially near metro stations in the morning.

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Calle de los Tlacoyos

Centro HistóricoLook for the cluster of street vendors in the Centro Histórico during the morning hours; they serve the most traditional versions.

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Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre

Roma NorteA modern "corn laboratory" that often serves sophisticated versions of tamales based on what is fresh that day.

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Mercado de Coyoacán

CoyoacánSeveral stalls here specialize in the banana-leaf "Oaxaqueño" style tamales.

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Tamalería Nativitas

Benito JuárezA hidden gem that locals swear by for its incredibly moist and flavorful dough.

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Tamales "El Monarca"

variousKnown for their sweet tamales, especially the strawberry and pineapple versions.

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Tamales Cintli

Roma NorteA modern spot that uses organic corn; their "huitlacoche" tamale is a standout.

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Tamales de la Roma

Roma NorteA very popular morning spot for locals and office workers.

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El Pozole de Moctezuma

GuerreroFamous for its "Guerrero-style" green pozole; they add a splash of mezcal and a raw egg at the table for extra richness.

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La Casa de Toño

variousA beloved local chain where the pozole is the main event; great for a quick and authentic fix.

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El Cardenal

Centro HistóricoTheir pozole is a refined version, served with high-quality ingredients and traditional ceremony.

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Pozole Potzolcalli

Centro HistóricoA reliable chain that specializes in the "Rojo" style; very consistent and family-friendly.

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Pozole de la Roma

Roma NorteA very popular evening spot for locals and office workers.

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Pozole de Iztapalapa

IztapalapaThe best way to find it: look for the "Pozolería" signs in the residential neighborhoods.

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Pozole de Narvarte

NarvarteA reliable local favorite; their "maciza" meat is always tender.

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Pozole de la Juárez

JuárezA bustling neighborhood spot popular with the local creative crowd.

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Chilpa

CondesaThey offer a "designer" chilaquiles experience with high-quality ingredients and various spice levels.

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Lalo!

Roma NorteA communal-table spot by Chef Eduardo García; their chilaquiles are sophisticated and bursting with fresh flavor.

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Fonda Margarita

Del ValleA legendary spot for home-style Mexican food; the chilaquiles here are legendary.

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Ojo de Agua

variousA health-focused chain that does a surprisingly excellent and fresh version of chilaquiles.

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Jenni’s Street Quesadillas

Roma NorteFamous for both quesadillas and tlacoyos; the blue corn masa is handmade on the spot.

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Chilaquiles de la Esquina

CondesaFamous for the "Torta de Chilaquil" (chilaquiles inside a bread roll); expect a long line.

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Parque Lincoln Carts

PolancoA slightly more "upscale" street food experience in the heart of Polanco; perfect for a stroll in the park.

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Elotes de la 11

Centro HistóricoPerfectly located for a quick night-time snack in the heart of the historic center.

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Esquites "Elotes de la 6"

Centro HistóricoA rival to its neighbors, known for its perfectly seasoned broth and fresh corn.

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Esquites de la 5 de Mayo

Centro HistóricoA reliable spot for a quick snack while walking towards the Bellas Artes.

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Quesadillas El Recreo

IztacalcoKnown for their giant size and the "churros-like" crunch of the fried dough.

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Quesadillas de Masa Azul

CoyoacánLook for the stalls that specify "blue corn" for a deeper, nuttier flavor.

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Restaurante El Cardenal

Centro HistóricoTheir mole is deeply traditional and served in a grand, historic setting; perfect for a long weekend lunch.

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Tamales de Doña Rosa

CoyoacánFamous for her "tamales de dulce" (sweet tamales) including pineapple and strawberry.

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San Ángel Inn

San ÁngelA stunning old monastery setting; the most romantic place to eat chilaquiles in the city.

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Esquites de la Juárez

JuárezA popular night-time spot for the local creative crowd and theater-goers.

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Esquites de la Roma

Roma NorteA popular night-time spot for locals after a movie or a play.

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Tlacoyos El Parián

Roma NorteA favorite in the Roma neighborhood; the blue corn masa is exceptionally flavorful.

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Tamales de la Alameda

CentroPerfect for a quick bite after visiting Bellas Artes; look for the stand with the longest line.

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El Huequito

Centro HistóricoFamous for its "taco de pastor" which is served as a mountain of meat without the pineapple, focused on the spice rub.

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Los Cocuyos

Centro HistóricoMade world-famous by Bourdain; while their suadero is the star, their pastor is excellent and the atmosphere is pure CDMX.

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Fonda Mayora

CondesaKnown for its deep respect for traditional ingredients; their mole is rich, dark, and complex.

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Fonda El Refugio

JuárezA historic guardian of Mexican culinary traditions; their Mole Poblano is legendary for its balance and depth.

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Tamales "El Portal"

Centro HistóricoA long-standing favorite for a quick breakfast in the historic center.

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Esquites Don Josué

XolaA local legend known for his rich broth and the specific variety of chilies he uses.

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El Rey del Pozole

variousA bold name that delivers a solid, spicy red pozole that is popular with late-night crowds.

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Chilaquiles de la Roma

Roma NorteA very popular morning spot for locals and office workers.

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El Vilsito

NarvarteConsidered by many to be the best pastor in the city; the transformation from garage to taco heaven is legendary.

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El Tizoncito

CondesaA bit more refined and consistent, with many locations, but the Condesa original is the most historic.

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Taquería El Califa

CondesaA modern, bright chain that offers high-quality meats and excellent service; the pastor is very lean and flavorful.

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Taquería La Onda

San ÁngelA classic spot in the south of the city; known for its consistent quality and traditional presentation.

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Tlacoyos San Ángel

San ÁngelA perfect morning stop before visiting the Saturday market; the "chicharrón prensado" filling is excellent.

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Tlacoyos de la Juarez

JuárezA reliable street stand that serves a very loyal office-worker crowd during lunch.

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Quesadillas de la Alameda

CentroA perfect quick bite; look for the stand with the longest line and the freshest masa.

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Pujol

PolancoFamous for the "Mole Madre"—a circle of mole that has been aged for over 2,000 days, served with a circle of fresh mole in the center.

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Azul Histórico

CentroLocated in a stunning courtyard; their "Mole Negro" is exceptionally rich and flavorful.

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Los Danzantes

CoyoacánA beautiful spot overlooking the plaza; great for a more modern take on traditional mole.

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Restaurante Casa Virginia

Roma NorteA sophisticated, home-style setting; their seasonal moles are highly creative and well-executed.

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Las Petroleras

Azcapotzalco(Location-based) While famous for their giant fried masa "petroleras," their mole sauce is an excellent accompaniment.

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Ricos Tacos de Mole

various street cornersThe best way to find them: look for the blue-and-white carts that specialize in "enchiladas de mole" during lunch hours.

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Mole de Milpa Alta

Milpa AltaThe most authentic experience: travel to the village of San Pedro Atocpan during the October Mole Festival.

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Tamales Doña Emi

Roma SurWidely considered the best tamales in the city; try the "lomo con aceitunas" (loin with olives).

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Casa de los Tacos

CoyoacánWhile a taco spot, their breakfast tamales are excellent and served in a beautiful historic setting.

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Tamales de la Esquina

CondesaA reliable morning cart near the park that serves great guajolotas (tamale sandwiches).

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Tamales de Iztapalapa

IztapalapaThe best way to find them: look for the large silver vats in the local morning markets.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Tamales de Narvarte

NarvarteA reliable local favorite; their banana-leaf "Oaxaqueño" style is excellent.

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Los de Suadero

variousSome of these taco specialists also serve an excellent, meat-heavy pozole in the evenings.

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Mercado de Antojitos

CoyoacánA great place to try different regional styles of pozole in a vibrant market atmosphere.

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Restaurante Nicols

variousKnown for their hearty, home-style pozole that feels like it was made in a grandmother's kitchen.

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Pozolería Tixtla

variousAnother specialist in the Guerrero style, famous for their "Jueves Pozolero" (Pozole Thursdays) tradition.

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Pozole "Los de Suadero"

variousMany of these taco specialists also serve an excellent, meat-heavy pozole in the evenings.

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Pozole de Santa Maria la Ribera

Santa Maria la RiberaA neighborhood institution; their white (blanco) pozole is exceptionally clean and flavorful.

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Desayunador El Pozito

CoyoacánA local favorite for a cheap and cheerful breakfast before exploring the south.

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Café de Tacuba

Centro HistóricoA historic, beautiful restaurant with classic chilaquiles and great atmosphere.

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La Esquina del Chilaquil

CondesaFamous for the **"Torta de Chilaquil"** (chilaquiles inside a bread roll); expect a long line.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Maque

CondesaKnown for their incredible pastries, but their savory breakfast menu is just as strong.

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Chilaquiles de Iztapalapa

IztapalapaThe best way to find them: look for the stalls with large pots of salsa and fresh chips.

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Chilaquiles de Narvarte

NarvarteA reliable local favorite; their "Salsa Roja" has a nice, smoky kick.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Esquites de la Condesa

CondesaKnown for their rich broth and high-quality toppings; arguably the most famous esquites in the city.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Mercado de Coyoacán Carts

CoyoacánSeveral carts set up outside the market in the evening, offering very traditional and spicy versions.

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Esquites con Tuétano

variousLook for the stands that advertise "con tuétano" (with bone marrow) for an extra-rich and decadent experience.

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Esquites de Santa Maria la Ribera

Santa Maria la RiberaA neighborhood institution; their epazote flavor is exceptionally deep and concentrated.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Esquites de Iztapalapa

IztapalapaThe best way to find them: look for the large steaming vats in the local "tianguis."

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería General de Dulce

Centro HistóricoA historic spot that has been serving traditional sweets and churros for generations.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería del Zócalo

Centro HistóricoLook for the small windows that serve churros and chocolate to go.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería de la 5 de Mayo

Centro HistóricoA reliable spot for a quick churro while walking towards the Zócalo.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería La Catrina

CoyoacánA popular spot in the heart of Coyoacán; try their "churros rellenos" (filled churros).

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería Las Duquesas

JuárezA hidden gem popular with the local office workers; their chocolate is exceptionally rich.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería El Moro

Centro HistóricoThe absolute gold standard; they are open 24 hours and have been the city's favorite since 1935.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería El Convento

San ÁngelA charming, old-world spot in the south, perfect after visiting the Saturday market.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería San Agustín

Centro HistóricoA direct competitor to El Moro in the Centro, known for its classic Mexican hot chocolate.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería Porfirio

variousA reliable chain that offers a more modern environment and a wide variety of dipping sauces.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería del Carmen

San ÁngelPerfectly located for a sweet treat after exploring the colonial streets of San Ángel.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería Las Farolas

variousA local favorite for a cheap and quick sweet fix; their cinnamon-sugar ratio is perfect.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

Churrería de la Alameda

CentroA quintessential CDMX experience; buy a bag and eat them while walking through the park.

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+80 XP0 recordsMaps

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